The MW will perform extremely well in a wide range of enclosures, either sealed, vented, or free-air. The MW exhibits a unique combination of smooth frequency response, low distortion, and extremely powerful bass to deliver an outstanding sonic performance in any high performance two- or three-way system. The MW utilizes an oversized 75 mm 3 inch diameter voice coil to drive the MSP one-piece cone diaphragm. The 15, 17 and 20 cm Esotec MW car series woofers all utilize new ultra compressed dual ferrite magnets positioned inside the coil to produce maximum utilization of the magnetic energy. The powerful double magnet system utilizes a vented pole piece for additional cooling.
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For dashboard mounting there are two "soft dome" 1. For door mounting there are four 6. The ventilated magnet system has a 75mm aluminum voice coil which has very good heat dissipation capacity. There are two extra tweeters, as described above, for mounting in the D pillars. They contribute to a very clear and pure sound experience for all passengers.
The stock drivers have paper cones, and the rear doors and parcel shelf drivers have integrated tweeters. Curiously, the 8" woofers are clearly marked, with Volvo parts number labels, as 8 ohm drivers. All others are marked 4 ohms. This is significant because the Dynaudio driver that was used in this assembly is appears to be a variant of the Dynaudio MW, which is a 4 ohm driver.
My friends in Volvo tell me that this was done for the dual purposes of level matching and to prevent the combined load of the rear door and parcel shelf speakers from overwhelming the amplifier.
All drivers are mounted in Volvo mounting brackets specific to the intended application S70 or V70 and have crossover components integrated into the mounting bracket and driver assembly, exactly like the OEM drivers. Three booklets are included to describe dash mounting, door mounting and parcel shelf mounting, respectively. Installation took under 3 hours, and I would describe it as "easy. On the other hand, if this is going to be your first, this is a great way to start.
This kit really is a drop-in installation. I could probably have done it in 1. The worst part of the job is drilling a hole in the parcel shelf panel to accommodate the tweeters. The instructions tell you exactly where to measure and where to cut with a 2.
Tip: put a scrap piece of wood behind the panel when you drill this hole. All was well 10 minutes later when two tweeters were installed and the parcel shelf was back in place. The finished product looked like a factory installation, and the rear deck tweeters are the only indication that this stereo is anything other than factory original for the US market.
So the big question remains: how does it sound? At first, I made the mistake of tuning to my favorite local college station, who are always playing something "new and different," but the reception is very good. Time to get some of my CDs Same sound!!! I just spent a bundle of money on this setup, and it still sounds absurdly bass heavy. Midrange and high frequencies sound cleaner and smoother, but that roller coaster ride of a bass curve is still present.
My gut feeling at this point was that the only solution would be to replace the SC with some other receiver. A little more digging, and I found out that the SC does not have a built in amplifier, as does the SC So an external amp would be required to utilize the SC, but fortunately the SC has the same external amp output that the SC uses.
This means that I can hook up an amp in advance, before running to my local Volvo dealer for the SC FYI, the Volvo part numbers for the amp, cable and mounting bracket are , and Instead, I thought that I would just buy an aftermarket amp and try wiring it into the Volvo amplifier connection by myself. So I bought the Volvo amp and other goodies, and hoped that maybe, just maybe, this would be all that I need to solve this frequency response problem. No such luck.
Same boomy sound. But at least I now had everything in place for the upgraded head unit. This receiver is normally a nine-hundred-or-so-dollar item, but by bringing my old unit back, they were able to credit me for the core charge for the SC, so I only had to pay the difference. Installation was exactly the same as for the SC, and I was driving off with tunes only five minutes later. Every instrument can be heard without being overpowered by any other, just as was intended by the producers of the recordings.
I did some more of the same frequency response testing, and that peak is completely gone. That might not seem like a very smooth response curve, but keep in mind that this is in car response, not in a controlled test environment. This is something that many series owners would probably love to install, if only somebody knew something about it. Well, the secret is out! Select "Custom" see point B. The change can be seen in the display, as well as heard. Regardless, an understanding of the equalization capabilities of the SC helps to explain why the SC sounds the way it does, and why the SC makes such a big difference in my completed system.
Word is that the Mitsubishi-manufactured SC does, in fact, have a hard wired equalization curve built in to it. Keep in mind that the SC was installed quite a wide range of body styles and vehicle sizes, all with different speaker layouts and acoustic characteristics. My contact mentioned the series, series, 70 series and 40 series Volvo sedans and wagons, but I think the SC made its way into the C70, as well.
By far, the most popular of these were the and series wagons, so an equalization curve was chosen to best accommodate the cavernous rear and lack of parcel shelf speakers in those vehicles. Fortunately, the Alpine-manufactured SC and SC have defeatable equalization curves, allowing you to use top quality speakers like the Dynaudio system without any form of electronic colorization. Here, the correct EQ curve is downloaded into the system at the end of the production line.
This gives us the possibility to even further fine tune the EQ for different needs, like market, car type, upholstery type etc. Another addition: People keep asking me about these two topics: "How do you remove the factory speaker grills or door panels? The entire door panel must be removed. While this is not a particularly hard job, explaining it without nice diagrams or photographs will be very time consuming and will result in a very lengthy article.
As I said earlier, these are probably not the answers that folks are hoping for, but these are the only honest answers I can give you. I hope they help you make the best decisions for your needs.
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